Introducing Mejicali: A Modern Mexican-American Bar Forges Its Own Way

A “modern Mexican-American bar” is how The Bebedero’s River Hawkins describes his latest venture, Mejicali. Like Hawkins himself, it is a hybrid of cultures, blending Mexico and California. Children of immigrant families can sometimes feel like they straddle two identities – “not American enough to be accepted here, but not Mexican enough to be accepted there,” Hawkins said. It is from this no-man’s-land, Hawkins says, that cultures like Chicano and Cholo emerged.

Hawkins’ business partner also comes from a family of immigrants from Mexico – John Ornelas, whose family co-owns the Guadalajara restaurants. Ornelas co-owns El Mariachi as well. Hawkins’ and Ornelas’ new venture Mejicali reflects their Mexican-American culture, all the way down to the appearance – an explosion of colors celebrating Hawkins’ heritage. “The art on the walls and expression of the bar,” said Hawkins, “are very much the styles I grew up on in Salinas, CA in the eighties and nineties, with street art and lowrider culture — things that were considered low-class, criminal and thuggish while I was growing up.”

The food is likewise a hybrid – primarily “Mexican street vendor food,” says Hawkins, but also borrowing from other countries, like the U.S. and Peru. “What we’re both trying to do is celebrate the motley culture of second generationals like ourselves in creative modern ways,” said Hawkins. In Esquite Bombs, for example, the Mexican street corn classic esquites, comes with a twist: shaped into balls, breaded and fried. The tacos, meanwhile, are California-style, stuffing housemade tortillas with fillings like fried Mahi Mahi, skirt steak, and birria. Hawkins is also partial to the Leche de Tigre (Peruvian Ceviche) and Trompo del Pastor, an Al Pastor pork skewer with guacamole mousse, red pickled onions, salsa and a tortilla.

That same spirit spreads to the bar. At The Bebedero and Milkman’s, Hawkins has earned a reputation as one of the area’s best mixologists.  In the Chicha Gimlet, he takes a classic cocktail with origins in the UK and US, and adds a taste of Mexico. Cucumber infused Beefeater Gin, joins lime, sugar, mint, and Chicha Morada, a purple corn beverage. The cocktail is served in a plastic bag, which Hawkins says is a nod to how frescas are served at beaches all over Mexico.

Hawkins is an expert in Mezcal, often traveling to distilleries throughout Oaxaca to educate himself, cultivate relationships, and seek out undiscovered gems. At Mejicali, he is serving Mezcal and Tequila on tap, including Del Maguey Vida Espadin, Mi Campo Tequila Blanco, Cazadores Reposado Tequila, and Espolon Blanco Tequila. An expansive patio allows guests to have their Mezcal where some say it was meant to be enjoyed: outdoors.

Serving lunch and dinner seven days a week, Mejicali is now open at 852 W Main Street, in the former home to World of Beer.